High Life

Schloss Elmau - Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany

Second stay in this Schloβ Elmau, few kilometers from Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Arriving there is striking. After 5 km in a mountains and snowy road with dark forest around, the big castle emerges illuminated by night with its tower and high walls. First time we came, we expected a very typical Bavarian decoration inside. And we were wrong. This is a very successful mixture of ancient aspects with modern and contemporary elements. White is dominating in the main public rooms (lobby, corridors, main dining room) while the library or the bar are strictly going on to a warm and cozy red enhanced by gold lights. This is superb without any ostentation.

I was assigned a deluxe junior suite with balcony. First I must mention the quality of light there. Thanks to the whole open window, a pure light is always enlightening the room. And the view is very relaxing on a snow field with a small hilled forest and, then, high pick behind. Superb!

The bed is very comfortable and we can enjoy a rest area with sofa, table and a desk. Light wood furniture makes the ensemble very relaxing with only small light red panels (with small elephants) on the sofa and behind the bed. On the floor: wood everywhere and heated stoneware in the bathroom. I really like it even if I must mention dimension are the one of a room rather than a real junior suite – I never saw the rooms but they might be too small compared to the German standards. I must add storing area which is a real one with enough hangers and special drawers for the shoes. Bath items are excellent: Blenheim Bouquet by Penhaligon’s. Housekeeping should only think about renewing them at least once per day!

A strong asset of the Schloβ Elmau is its spa – hopefully forbidden to children under 16. It is a separated thee-storey modern building which makes me think of Uma Paro, Bhutan. In the basement, a real gigantic Moroccan style hammam with the whole equipment and staff (even loukoums!) on the ground floor: a vast comfortable relaxing room opening on the mountain with firewood, warm blankets… There are an excellent wet hammam with salt to help you sue and one of the most beautiful hotel saunas worldwide: it is really hot, with hot floor as well, it is very large with two big window on the snow field and the forest. Everywhere, there are crushed ice distributors which are essential to respect the sauna liturgy. Of course, another room is organized so that you can have tea, fruits, water and books. Outside is a heated salted outdoor pool with snow around. That is magic. Upstairs are the treatment rooms with a good troop of therapists even if I was not completely convinced by their capacity to adapt them: they are delivering learned gestures and no more while real therapist MUST adapt the treatment to the specificities of the patient. Upstairs is a roof pool I never used as I only came for wintertime.

 

The food is included in the price of the room which will let you forget bills to sign. Nevertheless, drinks are not included which will let you the opportunity to have a look on the wine list, mainly focused on German wines with great propositions. At the bar, the menu is very well done: not so many cocktails but a lot of simple mix such as Campari Orange which is one of my best. In the morning, breakfast is served in the gigantic main room. It is very German with good quality buffet. For lunch, I only tried the menu from the spa which is simple and Asiatic orientated; the pomegranate and pineapple salad is superb. For diner, we chose the gourmet restaurant. We had a very good souvenir of our last time stay and I wondered why they did not get any star from Michelin. That last diner gave me some explanation: Too many service mistakes, a minimum of 25 minutes between each dishes and some trouble with the recipes and products (scallops had no tastes but the one of the curry only with too many salt, dessert looked nice but was very badly balanced with low quality chocolate). We were really disappointed and went back to our room at midnight. This is too long after a half day skiing. Other solution is the main restaurant we never tried. And there is an Asiatic restaurant we tried for our first stay: It is basic and not really good for people who traveled a lot in Thailand and South-East Asia.

For activities, the hotel strongly aims on ski with easy transfer to different spots (Zugspitze, Garmisch or Mittenwald). Equipment can be easily rented. Another strong asset is the cultural program: here is a place where Herbie Hanckock or Barbara Bonney performs!

 

The Managing director, Herrn Kienast, is one the most efficient hotelier I have ever seen. He anticipated everything and has an extraordinary talent for organization. He succeeds in managing a hotel where families with young children and quiet couple looking for resting can meet themselves without any troubles. That makes me love that place.

Aman-I-Khas - Rajasthan, India

Aman-I-Khas is a tented camp hidden on the border of a rough road in the vicinity of magical Ranthambore National Park, Rajasthan (India). It is an Aman, of course so that a real touch of perfect sophisticated luxury will surround you everywhere. I am not speaking about that glitzy luxury; I mean true luxury which means doing what you want, where you want, when you want, with a strong capacity to anticipate your wishes. Isn’t this what we call home? Actually, Amanresorts are homes away from home.

Here, you will find very few huge tents; no one can disturb you considering the low capacity of hosting. But first, thanks to a selected clientele who is looking for privacy and quietness rather than big bars and restaurants, disco, rough laughs, animation for the children, etc… Some of you looking for this, avoid any Aman but this one in particular.

Here, you wake up early, dine early and enter communion with Mother Earth.  First, because Mother Earth is chilly, cold, frozen in winter (the best season) and you will feel it into your entire body despite the numerous efforts of the hotel: heater surrounding you for diner and hot-water bottle on your legs, blanket while around the central bone fire for a pre-dinner cocktail, electrical blanket in your bed. Actually, do not look after your appearance while there: hot-water bottle and three beige blankets will make you like Auntie reading her Reader’s Digest in her cottage with her wheat porridge by a Monday morning in deep Lake Country… Anyway, That was funny to watch for some guests going to diner overdressed on an African safari style Versace/Gucci revisited… I think they are now in a revitalization process after having been frozen. And I was said tigers did appreciate this accident as they did not frankly like that strong Dolce&Gabanna fragrance when those guests entered the privacy of Ranthambore park…

Let us come back to the tents. They are huge organized around a central day bed. On the left, a vast bathroom with two vanities and areas to store your clothes. On the right, a big bathtub with, hidden by cream curtains, a shower and the restrooms. On the back, the bedroom. When entering the tent, you will have a comfortable area with a table, outdoor daybed and sofas. Nature surrounds this and you will only perceive your neighbors.  Furniture are the one you can imagine in a safari tent: wood travel desk and so on, all in light teck tones with cream textiles for the tent. That is absolutely perfect. Perhaps one could mention a lack of storing areas. I must mention bath products which are just excellent with a fresh peppermint spirit. Each tent gets his batman, say butler, who very quickly learn your habits even the small ones. They are on working on a very high level even if, sometimes, we might have miscommunication because of the English level. But this is a detail.

Public areas are similar to your tent: a tent for the library, a tent for the diner area, a ten for the spa. Sounds normal for a tented camp! The library is comfortable even if the choice of books is weak. In the spa, you will be treated by excellent, professional and simple therapists. They quickly understand what you need and are pro-active. Their hands are precious after a three hour safari on rough roads or even a year face-to-face with a computer.

The food is good but might get some improvement. It is difficult to say what is the problem but there is one. Perhaps a question of capacity of choice. As there are only a few guests, the chef is not editing a menu; he will present you what he cooked at the beginning of the dinner. Actually he did once only; he let your batman doing so quite all the time. I think that he should meet every guests during the day to propose dishes. That could be difficult to manage but this is done in other Aman and it works. There would be no problem not to get your usual beefsteack but communication is missing there. My feeling was we eated always the same things. Desserts as well should be improved: I would just mention sorbets with the same two flavors everyday. Well, I know, I am French and food is important. Nevertheless, the majority of vegetables and fruits you eat there are coming from the hotel organic garden. Visiting it is a charming walk to discover they also have their own mushrooms caves!

There is a small pool with birds coming. That is very nice for sunbathing when returning from a morning safari. But not possible to swim in winter. If you cannot swim, you can have a look on the two Amanfamily crocodiles resting on the shores of the resort pond…

Activities strongly focus on safaris. Even if we did not get the chance to see only one tiger, the park is quite nice. This is not Africa – I mean for the very public areas we visited. There is a very old and fascinating fort overlooking a wildlife lake. That makes this area so magic. The strong issue in the park is its visit management: too much people with noisy enormous cars, called “green elephant” by some of the best guides. My best souvenir is not with this first basic visit. I DID prefer walking a guide waiting for some warning calls done by the preys when they see a tiger or a leopard. That is fascinating. And what about that trip to privatized lake where our batman organized a light drink. That is Aman: doing tailored activities in hidden places.

And I must finish with G and D, managers of the camp. They managed hotels in Africa and they DO know what is safari. G is one the key worldwide wildlife guide who can bring impressive knowledge on the animals you can observe. D is adorable and brings that touch of absolute sweetness to the property. Thank you again for your welcome.

Amanbagh - Rajasthan, India

Amanbagh is another Amanresorts gem. Hidden in the middle of nowhere in Northern Rajasthan, Robyn and Manav will welcomed you as this is a strong Aman tradition. By the way, arriving in a hotel who wants you feel at home could not do otherwise. Robyn and Manav are always very attentive to all of their guests and they know the country very well. They are truly adorable and they very quicly taylored what we were expecting. No surprise if they won the Gallivanter's award of the best managers of the year!

 

Frankly speaking, first impression let me mitigated: Amanbagh is a huge hotel according to Aman standards. The hall is vast and a little bit cold with its hidden front desk. Then you can distinguish a gigantic and crowded swimming pool – again, according to Aman standards. The way to the villa is a long one. But my first impression disappeared soon…

Our villa was absolutely beautiful with a vast garden in front of us; it is intelligently stopped by an old wall and an organized jungle – from where monkeys might arrive every morning. The grass welcomes energic squirrels and many birds as well so that you always have performance while having a rest on you private pool.

As there is a pool. Not a plunge one. A pool. Not the basic Olympic. A pool to refresh, to bath ad even to swim. And it is heated so that winter time can be  swimming time as well. Then, an outdoor roofed terrace with an Indian-style table where breakfast is a must.

In the villa, two parts if we do not consider this nice, lighting lobby: the bedroom and the bathroom. I must mention marble is absolutely everywhere there in a soft pink peach which is so relaxing. Bedroom is a nice, double-windowed area with a large desk on the garden, a enjoyable sofa an table and a overking bed very well oriented on the light. Of course, quality of the mattress is there as well as pillows that can be modified according to your preferences (large or small…). No TV hopefully but a CD player with a not that bad choice at the Library of the hotel. The bathroom is large organized around a one-piece marble bathtube dominated by a sky dome. Here are the Mille et une Nuits! Bath items are from the Aman standards even if these are not my favourite – too sweety.

The main building is dominated the resort. On the first floor an excellent library. The choice of books is excellent aiming on local interest as we might expect (“as you might expect” is a key word in hostelry). And this is one of the best within Amanresorts (with the incredible one collected by Olivia Richli in Amangalla). The library is opened on a terrace among old eucalyptus trees and a roof terrace above. That last one looks a little bit abandoned while I am sure things could be organized there; I suppose that will be done later…

Downstairs are the indoor and outdoor restaurant and the bar. By winter time, real fire will be placed around your table as evenings are really, strongly cold. This is fun but it can make you quickly crazy as sparks jump a lot. Perhaps another way could be developed… Need to think about! The bar belongs to those traditional tropical bars: what could you drink as you know your drink will be too sweet anyway. Indeed, barmen in tropical countries are always mixing sweet cocktails. The one at Amanbagh belongs to that tradition with a trend to “less” than few others – the worse being at the Raffles, Singapore. As a diner, two possibilities: Western or Indian. I always opt for local food so that I am sure, when back home, I will not eat this kind of food for a while; you might get bored of same dishes everyday… But I know I am opening a controversy. Service is perfect with the whole ritual: butter and bread while it is useless for an Indian diner. And fork is never on the right position. That is fine anyway.

The boutique is first of all an annex of jewels shops from Jaïpur. The attendants are not playing it very friendly and above all they are not gems experts while they are selling many jewels. Then the choice need to be reinforced with basic books, postal cards and some paintings as well as Rajasthan is a kingdom for miniatures. Even if I spent time there, I still think this is of the two main areas for improvement.

The other one is the spa. Staff is very friendly but they are suffering of misunderstanding because of their English level, obviously. Then, their massage are not as experts as in other places – Aman-I-Khas on the first hand. Finally, by winter time, you have to come from your villa in you robe by a chilly late afternoon. They offer you a drink to prepare your body and then you will reach the treatment room by going outside on a 2 minutes walk. Then once your treatment finished, again, you open the door of that room directly on the chillier nature: blanket should be provided as you are immediately caught by coldness.

As I mention areas for improvement, let me mention that none of the employees leave their sandals while entering the villas. That should be automatic.

Activities are always great time within Amanresorts. And Amanbagh firmly follows the tradition. I would mention that quick trip to top-hilled desert ancient temple followed by a lunch on a small long wood boat cruising on a quiet and birdy lake among hills, mountains, unmotorized fishermen and old castles. Then you will reach an abandoned city with its palace and temples: the one of your child books when dreaming of the Book of the Jungle. That will make you India addictive, without any doubt. The other must is a late afternoon horseback riding in the villages, fields and castles surrounding the resort: that is magic.

Finally, I will mention Ratan: he is an excellent driver – and you must be very confident with your driver in India – a very intelligent man who will give you a lot from his absolutely perfect country.

No note for this Amanbagh: it is above many hotels.

A New High Life

Blog is the one thing you begin and stop few weeks after. Only some junkies -I know, one of my best friend is addicted - can make their blog a professional matter.

The old High Life was erratic and ironic. The new one will be serious and at least weekly. The goal: criticizing as usual with a strong focus on hotels, restaurants and other charming topics.

All contributions are most welcomed.

B.

Il est parti

C'est fini, notre Jacques est parti en nous rappelant l'essentiel : soyez unis, aimez votre pays, soyez tolérants.

Ces principes pour moi fondamentaux, il les exprimait aussi et surtout par sa posture : « back to basics » car c’est là que l’on peut se ressourcer. Il aime la Terre, le peuple, le mélange, la volonté de voir l’autre, la simplicité, la modestie et le bon goût français.

Mais je ne vais pas refaire la même note qu’en début de semaine… Je note simplement que Jacques part au Maroc, pas sur un yacht.

Faute de goût

Décidément nous ne vivons pas sur la même planête ! Depuis hier, tous les journaux et la gauche bien pensante nous font le coup du scandale devant les soi-disant dépenses de notre futur président. Le tout à coup d'alignement de frais tous assez faux puisque, en l'occurrence, M. Sarkozy est invité. Cela me fait penser à ces courriers annonçant que une économie (quel vilain mot) de 100 euros sur l'achat d'un lave-linge s'il est acheté en plus des étagères imitation cèdre du Liban chez Castorama. Etonnant également d'entendre les mêmes s'insurger devant tant de luxe sans parler de leurs propres frasques régulières à la Mamounia, au Ciragan Kempinsky ou la Bastide de Moustier. Combien déjà pour les suites vue Grand Canal de Mitterrand au Gritti ?

Mais là n'est pas le problème. Il est bien évidemment ailleurs : il est dans la double faute de goût absolue de notre nouveau président (pas encore en exercice de surcroît).

La première faute : être à l'étranger le jour du 8 mai.

La seconde - qui nous choque particulièrement ici : qu'il est vulgaire de dîner au Fouquet's, pire, d'y dormir et ensuite d'aller en jet à Malte sur un gros voilier. Seigneur que les Chirac avaient plus de goût en descendant à la Résidence.

Malte est une superbe destination mais diantre, pas en voilier congés payés. Ceci dit, nous avions déjà une indication : cet homme préférait le Pyla au Ferret. Ah ces nouveaux riches !

Anti-clapisme - §1

Une petite série sur l’applaudissement. Très difficile l’applaudissement. En fait, avant toute entrée dans une salle de spectacle, chaque spectateur devrait apprendre à utiliser l’applaudissement à bon escient. D’ailleurs, je suggère à Nadine d’ajouter une séance sur ce point dans ses cours de bonnes manières.

Je vais commencer par la pire espèce : le clappeur. Le mot n’existe pas mais la mode est au néologisme… Je hais les clappeurs. Je hais ces gens qui, tels des chiens pavlovinisés, vont au spectacle pour taper dans leur main avec la musique. La musique arrive, le rythme binaire se fait entendre et hop : clap, clap, clap. Comme à la télé. Le clappeur d’ailleurs vient au spectacle pour être comme à la télé. J’imagine que, chez lui, dans son fauteuil, il s’organise des claps-claps – pas pratique pourtant avec son plateau repas.

Cette mode est vulgaire. D’autant que le clappeur clappe faux. Il fait des clap mous, des claps flasques. Rien à voir avec le clap du danseur flamenco, du danseur africain ou celui de Gene Kelly, Debbie Reynolds et Donald O’Connor.

Surtout, vous aurez noté que le clappeur est systématiquement un nul en rythme. Sa capacité à swinguer est souvent la même que celle de Nicoletta. Le clappeur a une conception très personnelle du temps qu’il fait toujours tomber avant ou après les pauvres artistes qui rament, en scène, pour oublier ce vacarme ridicule.

Car le clappeur est bruyant : non seulement il est hors du rythme mais en plus il le montre avec grand bruit jusqu’à couvrir les artistes.

Et c’est aussi un méchant : le clappeur n’aime pas le non clappeur – qui le lui rend bien. « Tu clappes pas toi. T’es pas drôle. Allez clappe avec nous… D’ailleurs, Johnny, il a dit de clapper [si tant est que je n’aille jamais à un concert de Johnny]. » En effet, un nombre croissant d’artistes propose au public de clapper. Ces artistes sont fous car ils auront toutes les peines du monde à arrêter les malades qui clappotent.

Demain, le clap-clap de type américain et son ami le you-you/yeah-yeah.

Sus au clap.

Retour pour un nouvel élan

Nouvelle année, nouvel élan, constats inchangés : la culture ne doit pas être ouverte au grand public. Les raisons sont multiples mais la première réside dans l’incapacité de la masse à apprécier ce qu’elle voit lors d’une exposition, par exemple. Etayons ces propos : exposition Vienne 1900. Des masses de visiteurs qui ne vont pas voir une exposition mais qui vont la « faire » :

« - Qu’est-ce que tu as fait ce week end ?

-         J’ai fait l’expo Klimt, c’était pas mal ; j’aime bien Vienne, on l’a fait aussi…

-         Ah, moi, j’ai pas pu la faire… »

Horreur de ce verbe utilisé abusivement mais qui dénote assez bien l’état d’esprit de tous ces gueux. Objectif : parcourir d’un œil maussade des séries de tableaux, lire quelques explications au début, passer à toute vitesse devant les dessins – « bof, c’est gris » – et surtout conserver 25% de son temps dans la librairie pour acheter des cartes postales et une choppe qui permettra de dire : « J’l’ai faite, la preuve... »

Mais ce dont ces gens ne se rendent pas compte c’est qu’ils gênent les vrais amateurs, ceux qui ne se plantent pas devant les tableaux le nez dessus en faisant la queue cimaise après cimaise en se demandant qui peut bien être ce monsieur Schiele avec ces autoportraits si dégoûtants.

De vraies mesures anti-populaires s’imposent :

-         Présenter une copie de diplôme attestant que le visiteur a fait des études supérieures ou suivi une école d’art,

-         Répondre à un questionnaire de culture générale portant sur les principes fondamentaux de l’homme de goût,

-         Justifier de l’abonnement à deux revues minimum parmi une liste pré-définie : Esprit, Commentaires, La Revue des Deux Mondes, The Spectator, The Atlantic, Opéra International, Le Monde de la Musique, Diapason, L’Histoire, Le Débat, TLS,

-         Montrer sa carte de membre de trois musées consacrés aux Beaux-Arts au minimum,

-         Prouver que l’on a visité trois capitales culturelles dans l’année précédente, vu trois opéras sur l’une des grandes scènes européennes ou nord-américaines et assisté à trois pièces de théâtre dont une obligatoire à la Comédie française ou à l’Odéon (théâtre de boulevard, pièce de Laurent Ruquier sont rédhibitoires et le candidat est alors exclu à vie).

Enfin, seules 500 personnes peuvent visiter les grandes expositions pas jour, uniquement sur rendez-vous.

Pour les musées, seuls les membres doivent pouvoir entrer.

Et alors, enfin, nous pourrons savourer de nouveau.

Je reviendrai vraisemblablement sur d'autres zones de privilège à rétablir de façon urgente dans un proche avenir.

Encore un vrai problème

Le cinéma ! Ou plutôt les salles de cinéma. Voilà un vrai problème. Pas de vestiaire, pas de réservation possible du fauteuil, pas de catégories de places.

Je n'ai vu ce bonheur qu'une seule fois : le cinéma de plein air en bas du Musée Océanographique sur le Rocher. Une vraie pelouse, des catégories différentes, des places numérotées, des fleurs, de la nourriture normale...

Autre solution : chez soi. Mais en même temps, le cinéma c'est fait pour aller à l'extérieur. Une seule solution donc - et nous revenons à la même conclusion - : il faut constituer des salles avec places numérotées et catégories de prix différentes (ex. : un poulailler ne permettant que d'entendre par exemple).

Chasse à courre (suite)

Le scandaleux Blair a interdit la chasse à courre en précisant les animaux ne devant plus être ainsi chassés : le cerf, le renard. Que diantre, chassons le chat